Pho, a love affair

Author's rendition of pho ga,
chicken phofully dressed

My love affair with pho started as a long-distance fling. There was a pretty woman involved, but we never go to that "would you like to meet for coffee" moment. She did, however, send a video and a list of expectations. Mai Pham, a celebrated Vietnamese chef living in California, where all things trendy start, had put together a training of Vietnamese cuisine. I was a chef for a multi-national foodservice company, and I was hooked.

Pho, (pronounced pha, rhymes with duh) is the ubiquitous soup of Vietnam. Often consumed at breakfast, it is doled out from floating craft along the Mekong and in street-stalls all over Vietnam. Rice noodles and piping hot broth of beef or chicken are the base ingredients.

In America, pho is becoming as prolific as pizza. While it is as far from tomato adn cheese on the flavor spectrum as Italy is from Vietnam, its genesis in American culture is in a way a story twice-told. Both are conflict foods, each coming to America with her returning soldiers and diaspora of nations shattered by war. In Westbrook, Maine it made its first public appearance about four years ago when PhoverMaine opened its doors on Main Street.

Pho, according to gastronomic historians, began its enigmatic evolution in the northern provinces of Vietnam, the epicenter being in what was then Hanoi. Fans of the original dish eschew the plethora of herbs that garnish the Southern rendition that's so popular in the States. "It's about the broth," they say, an axiom ultimately true with or without the condiments.

The culinary rhizomes of Chinese cuisine may have earlier spread to Vietnam, but the evidence points to the colonial occupation by the French in the 1880's as having given birth to pho. One does not have to look any further than the first step of pho preparation to detect its foreign accent. Onion Brule (charring) is a long-used French technique for enhancing soups and consommes, Pho starts with charred onion and ginger. And, too, the similarities to pot au feu, quintessential French beef-stew, are unmistakable. In fact, the word "pho" is thought by some to be a corruption of the "pot au feu" of "pot on the fire."

Pho is a harmony of flavors, each fresh herb a independent voice singing a part in a rich melody of vibrant beef or chicken broth. Ginger and fish sauce and star-anise add a salty warmth. Americanized versions are some thirty percent larger than what is traditionally offered along the Mekong, with many more options, including raw beef, meatball, tripe and tendon, and even seafood. At prices around ten dollars a bowl, it is a bargain.

Westbrook's first purveyor of pho

Jen Huynh, whose family operates PHOever Maine,is a bit rankled by the assertion of pho's northern origins, Admittedly a foodie of the highest order, she is quick to point out Southern Vietnam's contribution to the national dish and her family's strenuous adherence to authentic ingredients.

Rendered is fifteen-gallon pots, the roasted bones are simmered up to eighteen hours to extract deep flavors. In a similar process, pho ga (chicken pho) is rendered from Cornish game hens, which according to Ms. Huynh give a richer and more authentic flavor than everyday chicken.

Bamboo Bistro features
pho of several varieties

A short drive down the road, Bamboo Bistro, a Thai-Vietnamese restaurant, offers beef, chicken and seafood versions, a testimony to American wealth. While Bamboo Bistro's menu is extensive, heralding its many creations, a yellow and red banner in front of the restaurant celebrates their offering of pho. Stymied by my lack of facility with Asian languages, I was unable to engage my server in conversation, but found my pho delicious and warming against the cold of a January day. I spent my time contemplating the debate over pho's origin and evolution.

In part, the differences in pho's preparation from North to South are as much about politics as they are about creative expression. Under the 1954 Geneva accords, Vietnam was split in two. According an article written by Andrea Nguyen, many northerners migrate southward to avoid the coming communist rule, bringing pho with them. In the more affluent and culinarily adventurous south, pho began to take on embellishments.

"Pho bac" (northern pho) had become adulterated with bean sprouts, Thai basil, and Asian cilantro. Purists of the north reacted in horror, decrying the loss of authenticity. I have come to appreciate the opposing positions and have since begun each consumption sans the condiments. While the debate raged within me, I not-so-patiently awaited spring and  the opening of  Veranda Kitchen & Bar, the newest purveyor of pho along Westbrook's streets.  I had been a long-time fan of their  Veranda Street Noodle Shop in Portland..

Westbrook's newest  provider of pho

Within twenty-four hours of Veranda's opening I had completed the trifecta of pho purveyors in Westbrook. Because I like it so much, and in the spirit of fairness, I consumed only chicken pho (pho ga). There was not one that failed to please. There were subtle differences, even between Portland Veranda and it sister restaurant, if you paid attention to the broth. For me the level of ginger is a defining element. After taking some minutes to contemplate the broth, I added condiments: a squeeze of lime, a couple of leaves of basil, a dash of Hoisin sauce...and yes, a squirt of Sriracha. I am, after all an American by birth, a chef by training, and possessor of an insatiable need to tinker with food.

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I make pho at home. Rendering broth from roasted beef bones is labor and time intensive. I save my exploration of beef pho for forays to the many eateries that now offer it. Purchasing herbs at retail is a bit expensive, but I enjoy cooking as much, if not more, than eating. So,the expense is mitigated by using the excess in other cuisines. This year Thai basil has a prominent spot in my herb garden.

This is the first in what I hope to be a series of blogs about the evolving state of the cuisine in Westbrook. If you enjoyed it and found it informative please let me know. It is a labor of love.

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